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Friday, November 30, 2018

Italy (Day 2) Early Bird Gets...Rome Without Crowds!


Perks of staying in the ❤️ of Rome = sunrise delights!  Molly and I may have frightened a few pigeons with our high-pitched giggles as we gallivanted through the empty Piazza Della Rotondra.  Wowsers - the Pantheon looks so majestic in the morning sun and the main square is HUGE without all the people.

It's 6am in Rome!

Love our hotel Albergo Abruzzi!

Heavy Lifting


Molly size car :)

After wandering a bit, we headed back to pick up Rob and Caitlin. It was still so early, that the coffee shop wasn't yet open.



With some grumbling, we roused the other half awake and got them outside.  Rome is incredible with ruins just about everywhere and the juxtaposition to the modern buildings makes them even more impressive. 


We tripped over these ruins smack dab in the middle of our walking path. Gosh, we are loving Rome!


Free ice cold drinking water from one of the city's 2500 traditional free-flowing water fountains.  You will come to appreciate these fountains!



The full Chic Family crew shaking off sleep stood giddy before a near-empty Trevi Fountain. Trust me, this is a huge deal as a later stroll showed us absolute zero view of any water due to the throngs of wall-to-wall people. 


Two clowns.  At the Trevi Fountain.


The Trevi Fountain is one of the oldest water sources in Rome dating back to ancient Roman times, since the construction of the Aqua Virgo Aqueduct in 19 B.C. that provided water to the Roman baths and the fountains of central Rome. It’s said that the Aqua Virgo, or Virgin Waters, is named in honor of a young Roman girl who led thirsty soldiers to the source of the spring to drink.  (Walks of Italy - 9 Surprising Trevi Fountain Facts)


With our crowd-free access right to the front we set up for our obligatory coin toss, a tradition to guarantee return travels. Some questions - right hand or left hand, over right shoulder or left, eyes closed or open? Oh, yes. We tossed many coins just to be sure.
 
Guess where we went after breakfast? My 4th time in the Pantheon 😂 but this time was the best because it was near EMPTY and the whole crew was together.

We are such tourists!

Cheesy Family Portrait 😂




Now, we were actually supposed to have our Colosseum Underground VIP Tour today, but just a few weeks before travel we received a notification that it had to be rescheduled to the following afternoon (tomorrow).  This would be combined with our already scheduled Vatican tour making for a full day.  Rather than try to fill the unexpected break in this day with another tour, we kept it chill and simply ate, drank, and soaked in the vibe.  Oh, wait.  We did do a surprise tour in the evening and it was awesomely spooky - can you guess?

Yes, champagne and beer! 😂


Caitlin is making herself right at home with frequent visits to gelato shops.  We encourage the children to be independent and explore on their own when we travel, especially in local markets.  I love the confidence I see in the girls as they effortlessly interact with all peoples.




Champagne, beer... limoncello?! These things just happen 😂. Rome service for the win!



There's something about Piazza Navona that kept us coming back!




We just realized that this heavily guarded building that we keep passing is actually the seat of the Senate of the Italian Republic - Madama Palace.



A last minute booking with Walks of Italy for an after-dark private viewing of Bones, Crypts, and Catacombs was a definite hit! We thought Molly would be scared, but she proclaimed it an AWESOME OH WOW AMAZING SUPER COOL experience (we concluded that she liked it 😂).

Entrance to Catacombs
We enter here to begin our evening of strolling Bones, Crypts, and Catacombs 👻! I told my joke of "So, there's this movie where the tourists...". Rob didn't think it funny 😂


Just so you know, none of the catacomb pics are mine. They are actually pics I took of postcards that I purchased at the sight. No photography is allowed. 

This tour was fascinating and because it was unplanned, we had no idea what to expect to see.  Real human bones are displayed as "art"!

Our tour first took us to the Catacomb of Santa Priscilla. One of Rome's first underground Christian cemeteries (dating back to 150 years before Christianity was legalized), this site has extraordinary ancient frescoes, eerie tunnels and the world's single oldest depiction of the Virgin Mary.


We visited another site that was even more shocking – the Capuchin bone crypt, a cemetery literally built from bones! The chambers are decorated with the remains of some 4,000 friars. For kids, it’s a fascinating lesson in anatomy and for adults, a moving reminder of what we’ll all become. The message at the end of crypt says it all: “What you are now, we once were. What we are now, you will be.”





Finally, we visited Basilica San Nicola in Carcere, the very center of 3rd century BC Rome in the midst of three separate temples. We descended through a crypt used in the 12th century for exorcisms, passing stacks of ancient human bone fragments. 

All along the tour, we enjoyed our guide's vast knowledge and great storytelling.  It appears that you can visit these sights on your own, but I can't imagine not having a guide.  We may not retain the knowledge, but to hear it, absorb it, and let our imagine run wild while in the moment - priceless!  Our girls are still regaling us with their memories of the catacombs of Rome.

After the tour, we wandered about back near the Pantheon and stumbled into a real gem for dinner - Achille Pantheon.  Both kids got their own whole fish. And, proceeded to devour it.


Roma artichoke 😋 so delicious!



Today, we discovered ourselves falling victim to what seems to be the normal operandi of complimentary welcome drinks (champagne) pre-meal followed by complimentary drinks (limoncello) post-meal. Perhaps, we are just getting even better at our restaurant selections! 

Tomorrow is our go-hard day in Rome, so off to 😴 Buona Notte, Dormi Bene da Roma!

Up Next: Rome - Guardians and Gladiators



Tuesday, October 9, 2018

4 Weeks of Summer: Road Tripping Italy, Cruising the Mediterranean


Ciao from Rome! We have arrived 🇮🇹 pic taken by our driver after he deposited us in front of the Pantheon at our hotel. Yes, we are standing RIGHT IN FRONT of our hotel here facing the Pantheon! Pinch me 😍

We hadn't planned to go on any trips this summer after our epic 6 Weeks in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia last year. But, my parents who are avid cruisers were keen that we all (3 adult children, spouses, and 4 grandkids) take a family cruise. I really don't care for cruises in general, but when I found out they were looking at a Mediterranean Cruise (their first time in Europe), it suddenly became something I could get onboard (hahaha, see what I did there).

We quickly made the decision to include a couple weeks traveling Italy pre-cruise. Let me tell you - we ended up with some lifetime memories of special experiences! I'm so excited to share a few hidden gems we found and hopefully you will see something you may want to add to your itinerary plans.  If anything, you will surely be convinced that Italy in the summer is a great idea!



If you have been following us, then you know that we strive to be carry-on only. This trip was no exception and was quite easy to manage with summer travel.

"Before anything else, preparation is the key to success." ~Alexander Graham Bell



Pre-Trip Planning

I spent endless hours pondering our itinerary.  Reflecting back, I wouldn't have changed a thing.  Putting the Amalfi Coast at the top of our wishlist resulted in us stumbling over the treasure that is Matera.  Matera is really what led us to get a rental car.  It's not easily accessible by public transport, but it is well worth the extra effort to visit this incredible place.


Caitlin at some point realized that she would be spending her 12th 

birthday on a plane returning home post-cruise. For some reason, this didn't appeal to her. Lo and behold, we added a 2nd mini-road trip of Italy onto the tail end of our trip for a very special birthday celebration. She has the best parents ever, right?! I know, totes.  We added Orvieto as the perfect wrap-up destination with a planned stay in the semi-abandoned hilltop village of Civita Di Bagnoregio for her special birthday treat.

Flights

I booked our tickets as soon as the flights were released, roughly 10 months in advance.  I played around with Google Flights and found that I could save $4000 by flying out of Newark.  I would also be able to get a direct flight.  It's about a 3hr drive and we would have parking fees for a month, but FOUR THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!! It was a no-brainer.  Flights were booked with United Airlines.  I don't know where you sit on the plane, but you'll find us squished in towards the back. 

Tours

I pre-booked all of our transfers and tours (found on the Internet) in advance.  Some I paid in full, others I paid a deposit to secure the reservation.  Every single one of them I would do again.  A couple of them were phenomenal. 

Rome Shuttle Limousine
  • Private Transfer (FCO Airport to Hotel) 55 euros
Walks of Italy:
  • Bones, Crypts, & Catacombs
  • VIP Colosseum Underground
  • Sistine Early Entrance Small Group Vatican
Amalfi Coast Destinations
  • Pompeii, Mt Vesuvius, Herculaneum
  • Amalfi Coast Tour
  • Private Transfers (Naples-Positano, Positano-Salerno)
Bella Italia
  • Florence Pisa Private Tour (Leaning Tower Climb)
Brightside Tours
  • Sidecar Tour (4 1/2 hours)
Forever Barcelona
  • Private Gaudi Chauffeured Tour (4 hours)
Gibraltar Inside Out Rock Tours
  •  Ultimate 10 Sights Tour (7 hours Private)
Sunshine Tours
  • Antequera/El Torcal

Accommodations

Every hotel was booked well ahead of time.  I booked two directly - Marincanto (secured with one night deposit) and Sextantio le Grotte della Civita.  These two are absolutely amazing places that do get fully booked, so I would recommend securely them well in advance.  I used Booking.com for the rest and paid for those at each stay.

Rental Car

This one is another PLUS for carry-on only luggage.  Streets are tiny and narrow, so you will want a small vehicle.  I reserved and paid in full (0 deductible) our rental car (compact automatic) booked online through AutoEurope with Hertz as the selected provider.  I actually did two separate bookings since we would need two rental periods. Printed off my confirmations vouchers and that was it.  Everything went so smoothly that I'm using AutoEurope again for our upcoming Finland trip.

Final Itinerary

Departure East Coast, USA to Rome, Italy (morning arrival)
Day 1: Rome, Italy (Albergo Abruzzi)
Day 2: Rome, Italy (Albergo Abruzzi)
Day 3: Rome, Italy (Albergo Abruzzi)
Day 4: Positano, Italy (Marincanto)
Day 5: Positano, Italy (Marincanto)
Day 6: Positano, Italy (Marincanto)
Day 7: Positano, Italy (Marincanto)
Day 8: Positano, Italy (Marincanto)
Day 9: Sassi di Matera, Italy (
Sextantio le Grotte della Civita)
Day 10: Sassi di Matera, Italy (
Sextantio le Grotte della Civita) 
Day 11: Civitavecchia, Italy (Alibrandi Palace)
Day 12: Civitavecchia, Italy (Alibrandi Palace) 
Day 13: Bon Voyage, Anchors Away! (Celebrity Reflections)
Day 14: Livorno, Italy (Cruise)
Day 15: Ville Franche de Sur Mer, French Riviera, France (Cruise)
Day 16: Barcelona, Spain (Cruise)
Day 17: Barcelona, Spain (Cruise)
Day 18: Sea Day! (Cruise)
Day 19: The Rock, Gibraltar (Cruise)
Day 20: Malaga, Spain (Cruise)
Day 21: Cartagena, Spain (Cruise)
Day 22: Sea Day! (Cruise)

Day 23: Palma de Mallorca, Spain (Cruise)
Day 24: Orvieto, Italy (Locanda Rosati)
Day 25: Orvieto, Italy (Locanda Rosati)
Day 26: Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy (Libera Mente)
Day 27: Fiumicino, Italy (Golden Tulip Rome Airport)
Day 28: Home, Sweet Home! USA

To say we were excited is an understatement.  After a year of planning, the day of departure had finally arrived.  We were well prepared, but still felt the usual butterflies that always accompany the hope of smooth and uneventful flight travel.

Day 1 - Rome, Sweet Rome


It was an easy 3 hour drive to Newark International Airport.  We had an early evening flight, so avoided rush hour and took our time.  I had prepaid for our long term parking at Newark Long Term Parking.  I chose this outfit based on Google reviews.  It was easy to find and easy in/out.  They give you a card with your parking spot # and instructions for contacting them upon return. 


I will mention that I was able to get a significant discount by booking with Park Ride Fly USA.  They appear to offer parking discounts at airports around the country.


Newark Airport was delightful. We checked in and managed our way through security.  Per our travel tradition (since we always arrive HOURS early), we settled in comfortably for a nice bite to eat.


Before long, it was time to board.  No delays, and we were off! 


Goodbye, USA!

 

Hello, Italy!


It was morning when we exited the plane and swiftly cleared through Customs. Easily found an ATM machine and withdrew several hundred euro without issue.

We didn't see our driver when we entered the Arrivals Hall, but there's wi-fi available, so a quick text was all that was needed to get us to the same meet point.  Into the car and headed into Rome proper, we nearly lost our minds at our first sighting of the city.  Nothing prepares you for the overwhelming beauty and the richness of Rome.  Be still my heart.  I'll never forget.


Then, our driver drove into the piazza of the Pantheon. Jaws dropped stunned. We exited the vehicle before it came to a full stop. Backpacks thrown aside onto the ground and luggage forgotten, we ran in circles giggling uncontrollably. Much to the amusement of our driver.


We are staying in this prime location at the cutest boutique hotel Albergo Abruzzi.  We were warmly greeted by the front desk and though it was early morning, they had 1 of our 2 rooms ready.  I had booked 2 Pantheon view rooms so the kids could have their own room AWAY from us.  The hotel kindly put both our rooms on the same floor.

Kids Hogging the View from Our Room

The view was to-die-for and we really enjoyed our stay here for simply hanging out our windows.  The hotel has a complimentary breakfast at a restaurant just across the piazza in front of the Pantheon.  It's lovely alfresco seating and the staff was just as kind there as they are at the hotel.



View from Kids Room

After we sorted ourselves from the journey, we were ready to head out and explore. And by explore, I mean EAT.

Piazza della Rotonda

Piazza della Rotonda



We just sort of wandered about dazzled by all the architecture before our eyes. Not sure how we came to a decision, but we found ourselves drawn into a lovely little shop. It was a perfect first meal after the long travel.  




After lunch, we meandered our way (after asking for directions from the restaurant) to Piazza Navona. Turns out, it was just around the corner.  Now, I was already feeling pretty good about Italy, but this pretty much sealed the deal.  The vibe was just AMAZING.

Piazza Navona


Piazza Navona


It was getting hot, so Caitlin and Molly were over the moon to finally try Italian gelato. #Winner!
 


Afterwards, we headed back to the hotel for some rest. By rest, I mean ditch the kids. Hahahaha.

So, with the kids deposited back at the hotel, Rob and I headed out to further explore.  And, by explore...yes again, I mean, EAT!  Goodness, we are so well matched for Italy.


With body clocks out of sync from travel, I had the pleasure of seeing the interior of the Pantheon 3 times with 3 different people 😂 (and we have plans to go inside again tomorrow morning when it opens 😂).   

Pantheon Visit #1:  We just couldn't resist.  So, we hopped in the quickly moving line.  It was interesting watching the security stop people for various reasons.  One couple tried to bring their rolling luggage in with them - nope.
   



We then went down this alley and found the Mother Ship that is Caffe Tazza D'Oro and got our first in-country espressos. Mmm, mmm.  Properly fueled, we were (SHOCKER) ready for that snack.



My bestie back home had highly recommended Antica Salumeria to me. She said I would thank her later. Hands down, I'm still thanking her.  It's actually located right next to the complimentary breakfast for the hotel.  Right in front of the Pantheon.  Can't miss it.  Make sure you go here.  You will thank me later.


The highlight of my day was leaving the kids in the hotel and #hotdate #kidfree having a "platter" of Rome delights🍷 in this heaven in a shop! Don't worry, I managed perfectly fine to stuff my face at dinner.  Hahahaha.


  

  


We brought leftovers (along with some extra purchases) back to the hotel.  Time to chill.  I showed Molly the Pantheon pics and she insisted on going down right away.  Rob opted to stayed behind with Caitlin while I took her.

Pantheon Visit #2: Just the two of us, it was special. A bit more crowded, I let her lead the way and watched her around as she took it all in.






So, I get back to the room with Molly and Caitlin pops up from her iPad asking where we went. Seriously? She then pouts that she got left behind (so untrue), so out we go.  Again, Rob opts to stay behind with Molly as I head back down with Caitlin.

Pantheon Visit #3: Anybody else? Hahahaha.




We summed up an incredible evening in Rome having dinner all'aperto taking it slow until almost midnight (2nd benefit 👍 of jet lag is being able hang where dinner at 9pm is the norm).



As the Pantheon closed its doors, we wandered out for our first evening in Rome with plans to head back to Piazza Navona for dinner.


It's still busy, but the musicians have come out and are getting the crowd joyful around the Piazza della Rotonda.




So many choices in Piazza Navona.  We found ourselves warmly invited into a busy (a good sign!) spot around the main square.


Oh my gosh, delicious grilled seafood for us and pasta no-leftovers for the kids. We made the start of this summer adventure official with our traditional family toast - SALUTI!


Do you think we left room for dessert? Seriously, are we just meeting... of course we did!


  

We were tired from the day's travel, but felt so relaxed and in no rush to turn in for the night.  Plus, we could barely lift ourselves after that incredible meal!  Musicians came to play in front of us and we were amused watching the police chase them and others off.  As soon as the police moved on, the vendors and entertainers would return.  It was a fascinating dance to watch. 


The vibe here is so incredible and uplifting - we are absolutely loving it!  It is such great fun just walking around the main square and observing all the various on-goings. 




Back in our room, we joined in the merriment and sang ourselves into slumber.


Buona Notte, Dormi Bene da Roma! 




Next Up: The Early Bird Gets...Rome - Without Crowds!