Super popular and high on every tourist's must-see list, we had it entirely to ourselves by leaving our hotel at 7am to arrive at the 7:30am opening. I had actually wanted to leave earlier, but I was assured that we would be the first ones there. Okay, whatever, I begrudgingly acquiesced while thinking EVERYBODY is going to be there at the 7:30 opening in a LONG line. Ha! I was wrong. There must be some really good night life that we are missing - hahahaha.
Library at Ta Prohm |
This was one of my favorites!! Cloaked in dappled shadows, crumbling towers, and walls locked tight in the arms of vast roots, Ta Prohm made my imagination run wild! Can you feel yourself step back in time looking at these ruins?
Jungle slowly devouring the temple of Ta Prohm. Incredible to witness this power of nature. Huge trees and massive roots spreading, probing walls and terraces apart. Loosening the stones of a temple built entirely without mortar or any binding material.
Ta Prohm is extensively ruined, but you can still explore numerous towers, enclosed courtyards and narrow corridors, discovering hidden gems of stone reliefs beneath the encroaching foliage. All alone here, we delighted with our decision to make it our first temple of Day 2. We even slept in an extra hour with a 5:30am wake-up AND had leisurely hotel breakfast!
I was trying to find my "stegosaurus" pic, but all I can seem to find is the vicinity of it in the pic below, but it is missing the bottom half and also, my close-up shot is nowhere to be found either. But anyways, around here (you can Google it for better directions and the actual image) there is a carving that is on every Ta Prohm scavenger hunt list. For fun's sake, people like to say it is evidence that dinosaurs existed during human times since the technology did not exist at the time of Ta Prohm's construction to determine what a stegosaurus looked like from unearthed dinosaur bones. Common acceptance is that the carving is that of a rhinosaurus with leaves behind it. Anyways, happy hunting for it!
Strange things lurk in the nooks and crannies of these giant trees. You've been warned!
So anyways, from the "Tomb Raider" temple, we continued to see Banteay Kdei (1st great Buddhist monastery in Cambodia), Pre-Rup (used for cremations), East Mebon (low pyramid with large guardian elephants), Ta Som (similar to Ta Prohm, large fig tree grows from the roof of the gate), Neak Pean (highlight of Khmer art with ornamental lakes surrounding a small temple), and Preah Khan (also similar to Ta Prohm, but better state of preservation, with immensely long corridors and delicate carvings). Let's go take a closer look at them!
Banteay Kdei
Very near to Ta Prohm, we next went to Banteay Kdei ("A Citadel of Chambers"). It is also known as "Citadel of Monks Cells" and was occupied by monks over the centuries until the 1960s. We noted some similarities to Bayon, but also to Ta Prohm.
Like I warned you earlier, strange things in these jungles! Our guide insisted on putting the girls in the tree. The ground was muddy and I remember thinking at the time that these kids are going to be mad if they fall and land in it. Luckily, they dodged that fiasco and came down feeling like they had accomplished some feat.
So many passageways to be explored.
Doorways upon doorways upon doorways!
It's a steep climb to the top of Pre Rup, an ancient Angkor mountain temple built in 961 out of a combination of sandstone, brick and laterite. Beautiful reddish coloring! Its name means "Turning of the "Body" referring to the tradition of cremation with the ashes of the body being ritually rotated in different directions as the service progresses. This Hindu temple is believed to have been used for cremations of Khmer royalty.
Moving in a counterclockwise direction along the Grand Circuit, we next went to the Hindu temple Pre Rup. The first thing we noticed about Pre-Rup was its beautiful coloring!
Our guide waited for us at the bottom after imparting the history and architecture of the temple to us. Needless to say, we all made it to the top. I made it to the top and immediately turned around to take the snap. Down below, you can see the stone cistern - its commonly believed funeral purpose is debated as scholars believe it was a basement for a Nandi the Bull bronze statue rather than being used for cremation ceremonies.
Our guide waited for us at the bottom after imparting the history and architecture of the temple to us. Needless to say, we all made it to the top. I made it to the top and immediately turned around to take the snap. Down below, you can see the stone cistern - its commonly believed funeral purpose is debated as scholars believe it was a basement for a Nandi the Bull bronze statue rather than being used for cremation ceremonies.
Little explorer rocked her girl-power achievement scaling the steep climb to the top confirming with her big smile tells all our decision to bring the kids to Angkor.
Sculpted guardian lions adorn the temple.
I found a quiet spot on a ledge to take in the ruins in solitude and soak in all my big feelings. Eventually, Rob found me :)
East Mebon
Very similar to Pre Rup and directly north of it is East Mebon, a 10th century temple that stands on what was once an artificial island at the center of the now dry East Baray reservoir.
Looking out at the surrounding grounds, I can't even imagine this whole temple being completely surrounded by water. It would have been reached by boat in times past.
Ta Som
Our guide next took us to Ta Som. This temple was not actually on my planned itinerary, but I guess as we were passing it, the guide made an executive decision. It was a good decision!
Neak Pean
Waiting patiently for daddy to finish shopping. |
Alright, everybody ready? Let's go see Neak Pean!
Neak Pean ("Entwined Serpents" sculptures of snakes are found at the base of the temple structure) is an artificial island with a Buddhist temple on a circular island. To get there, you first walk through through the baray on a long wooden boardwalk across the flooded marshland.
By Bamse [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) or GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons |
Our guide spent a bit of time explaining each to us and helping us to figure out our own matching element. It was great fun for the kids!
Human head: Symbol of Earth
Elephant head: Symbol of Water
Horse head: Symbol of Air
Lion head: Symbol of Fire
Preah Khan
Preah Khan, "the Sacred Sword" was not just a temple. It was a temple city occupying a large area surrounded by a moat. The outermost enclosure was built up with wooden houses and huts where common people lived. The wooden structures are long gone, but the remaining ruins are spellbinding.
Shiva linga on a pedestal outside the inner sanctuary. It is thought to have been moved from its original location from inside. A linga is a symbol of divine generative energy, especially a phallus or phallic object worshiped as a symbol of Shiva. Our guide told us that the pedestal provides passageway for the water that is poured over the blessed linga thus purifying the water. This holy water is collected and of great value to the believers. Stick with us to Phnom Kulen and we will show you the river of 1000 lingas!
That's a wrap for our perfect day templing so many incredible ruins and learning about Angkor history and architecture. Oh, I forgot to mention earlier, we passed through Angkor Thom during our day and our guide gave us great commentary as we were passing the sites from our previous day.
We loved exploring all the nooks and crannies of these magnificent temples and marveled at our full day Indiana Jones adventure. Hope you enjoy the pics, but they really don't do these places justice at all. And, again - I can't say enough how meaningful it was to have a guide. Of course, we don't remember everything we were told, but in that moment while looking before our amazed eyes, our little brains comprehending the the history and meanings in the symbolism, getting goosebumps - THAT is what I'll never forget.
As for the infamous crowds, I don't know what route everybody else took, but you can absolutely avoid crowds. We pretty much had the temples entirely to ourselves other than a small scattering of folks at Pre Rup, East Mebon, and Neak Pean.
Itinerary Day 2: Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, Pre Rup, East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Preah Khan. These were some of the more popular temples off what is referred to as the Grand Circuit. Having a car on this day made sense and it was top-notch having a guide accompany us the whole time. Cost: I switched it up as we initially wanted a tuk-tuk with no guide at $15 to car $40. The guide (arranged by Sam) was paid directly $35 for the day. Wait until you see Day 3 - we are going to explore further out getting (slightly) off the beaten path.
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